Don Sutcliffe of The Exceptional sent me this. As he says, brilliant. This brand and others like them are what keep distributors running: without them, no trucks, no salespersons, no warehouses, no way of reaching more than a handful of consumers. On the other hand, such brands are like a pervasive dense fog between the consumer and genuinely great craft spirits. What Ralfy says about brands seems obvious but it’s not widely understood.